Chemical peels
Is there anything more iconic in the beauty treatment industry than the chemical peel? She has been around for thousands of years, known around the world, and yet she’s still just as relevant today as she was all those years ago. But why the perseverance? The nutmeg grater has also been around the world for thousands of years but you can’t casually bring those up in a conversation and expect people to have heard of them. And yet even the most staunch beauty outsiders know what you mean when you say chemical peel. But why? I think part of this fame (or infamy) is in small part to the popularity of chemical peels in media. We can all recall reading Scarlett O’Hara talking about using buttermilk to lighten her freckles, and watching Samantha Jones showing up to that book party wearing a large, bee keeper style veil to conceal her recently peeled face. But I think when it really comes down to it the majority of the credit for the steadfast popularity of chemical peels is that, simply put, they just work.
Let’s fast forward through the ancient history of chemical peels a bit to get the modern versions, starting in 1871, research credits the first use of phenol as a chemical peeling agent to William Tilbury Fox. Ferdinand von Hebra is said to describe the properties of various peeling agents in 1874 and then In 1882, Paul Gerson Unna became the first dermatologist to use ingredients found in modern chemical peels - a paste containing resorcinol, salicylic acid, phenol and trichloroacetic acid (TCA). Sound familiar? These are substances are still used today, hundreds of years later, for chemical peels. And isn’t there something deeply charming about lying down on a treatment table, picturing all the women before you who were having the same treatments applied to their face? There’s a kind of solidarity to it.
Did you know there are different kinds of peels? This is why do some people look like a snake shedding its skin after a peel and others look completely normal. There are many different kinds of peels and they can all affect the skin differently, depending on several variables. The biggest difference is the depth of the peel.
Superficial - aka the “lunch time peel” this is the lightest type of chemical peel, only designed to affect the outer layer of the skin. This type of peel is done in a series and provides subtle improvement over time. This peel has the least amount of down time and is usually safer for a wider variety of skin tones. This choice may be best if you have fine wrinkling, acne, uneven skin coloring or dry, rough sun-damaged skin to help promote a healthy glow.
Medium - The outermost layer and the upper part of your middle skin layer are effected. The this peel will have more down time, typically at least a week or more.
Deep - This chemical penetrates down to the lower middle layer of your skin. This is a serious peel with serious recovery time a month or more. This provides the most dramatic and fast results. This is not done in a series, just one and done. This is administered by a doctor and requires the biggest dedication of your time.
Depth is not the only variable in chemical peels, there are also ingredients and formulations to be considered. Common options are :
Lactic acid peel - contains lactic acid (an acid that is formed in the fermentation process, usually derived from fruit and dairy) is a great option for people who have more sensitive skin or who have never done a chemical peel before. It is very gentle on the skin. Lactic acid is great for hydrating and gentle exfoliating.
Glycolic acid peel - glycolic acid has a very small molecule, allowing it to penetrate deeply into the skin, allowing it to really effectively dissolve the desmosomes that hold skin together to allow for really great exfoliation. This is a great option for ageing and acne prone skin.
Other commonly used peels are Jessners peel, salicylic acid peel, mandelic peel, retinol peel, TCA peel, and VI Peel. There are so many peel options in the world, it can be overwhelming to try and understand them all and figure out which peel is the best option for you. Thankfully you don’t really need to worry about any of that! If you are going to a good and reputable provider then they will be able to figure out the best option for you after a consulation. Qualified professionals will look at your medical history and listen to your skin concerns and goals to come up with the best treatment plan for you. So don’t stress, just make sure you see a qualified professional.
Your provider should also share comprehensive pre and post care instructions to follow, which can vary a lot based on the type of peel they are using and the individual receiving it. It is extremely important that you actually follow the pre care and post care instructions provided. They are not suggestions, they are requirements meant to provide you with the safest and most effective chemical peel experience. If you are not willing to follow these instructions, wearing and reapplying spf for example, then you should not pursue getting chemical peels until you can diligently follow all of your providers instructions. It will be a waste of your money at best and result in permanent damage to your skin at worst.
So who is a good candidate for chemical peels? People who want to improve their skin, promote anti-ageing, reduce black heads and acne, increase moisture, reduce hyperpigmentation such as sun damage, and melasma, soften fine lines, get glowing skin, and desire overall improvement in skin tone.
Chemical peels are one of the most popular skincare treatments of all time because they work so well, on so many different skin issues, with manageable downtime so don’t count them out. They have been the old faithful that has watched many trendy treatments come and go as they stand the test of time. I mean come on, If its good enough for Cleopatra, it’s good enough for us.
Sources:
https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/11010-chemical-peels
https://cdn.bad.org.uk/uploads/2022/01/29200047/H16_2016-Winner.pdf
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jdv.16307
https://beautymadesimply.com/peel-so-good-understanding-the-different-types-of-chemical-peels/
https://www.mayoclinic.org/tests-procedures/chemical-peel/about/pac-20393473
